Coast & Castles Day 4 - Montrose to Aberdeen

 

Well I’ve had many great (and terrible!) days on my bike, but that was right up there with the best! The weather, the route, the scenery and 2 of the best places I’ve ever been to…☺️ As yesterday, the bright light shining through the threadbare curtains signalled that the weather forecast was spot on (Dec thoughtfully sending me it at 4 in the morning when he’s up for his old man, recent hip replacement knee with unconcealed rage…) and it was a tough decision on what gear to put on. It had been cold last night, so it was only 3-4 degrees outside now but would get warm (well warm for Aberdeen in March!) later on. Deciding to layer up but have bib shorts and short sleeve base and top just in case, I packed the bags and headed for breakfast.

Although the hotel was frankly shit (but only £40…) they had advertised that Arbroath smokies were on the breakfast menu. Unfortunately they had “just” run out and seeing the state of the cooked breakfast they’d just served up at the next table stuck with a couple of poached eggs and toast. Having been spoilt with having the bike in the room the last 2 nights, I had 2 trips clattering all the gear downstairs and then the somewhat unenthusiastic youth manning reception told me I’d have to carry it all outside and round the back where he’d open the external doors. He literally threw the bike at me, immediately shutting the doors as I tried to get all my gear packed back away on the busy footpath. A bit flustered, I then had to get to the Tesco to fill bottles, and buy more wine gums for the day ahead, then I couldn’t get the lock to fit back into the frame bag…This was more like it! Cocking about, setting off late, this was the script I was used to!!!

Just after 9.15 I mounted up with 60 ish miles to get to the end in Aberdeen, the sun was hotting up and I was on holiday! Montrose seemed to have an excellent network of bike paths and soon I was back on Cycle Route 1 following the Esk out to sea. It must have tipped it down last night as the first 3 miles out of town were on really muddy tracks. I’d left my overshoes off naturally and was covered in crap and had wet feet!

Crossing the Esk for the last time and the route headed inland and the first climb of the day stretched out like a wall in front of me. I hadn’t really paid much attention to the climbing as I’d just noted the total elevation of each of the 6 today. This first one was only 380 feet, BUT in only quarter of a mile. GULP! The Garmin climb screen gives an idea of what’s coming, red being 5-15%. The screen was black so it was all above 15%! Tacking like a tea clipper to try and keep moving, the first hairpin was 25% then got steeper. I still had my long sleeve top, snood and gloves on and was rapidly overheating but knew it was only a short effort. Cresting the top I unclipped and started stripping off! It was the last time any of the outer garments would be needed today! The advantage of the climb was that there was a spectacular view of St Cyrus national nature reserve with the sun shining on the sea in distance, lovely!

The climbing continued, albeit slightly less steeply and I was 600 feet above sea level and joining the busy A90 for the next 6 miles. The lovely tailwind of yesterday had moved to a cross head wind so it was hard going at first, but as always on busy roads, you soon get used to it and get into a rhythm. With the sun glinting off the sea to my right, The Proclaimers singing The Light though my headphones, and me getting a proper wriggle on, I might have shed a little tear of joy…jamming the breaks on to get a photo in front of the signpost to Bush (I’m such a child…) I was past the turn off for Johnshaven at speed and 2 miles later I was turning right and down into the beautiful fishing village of Gourdon for a drink and some well deserved wine gums!

While I was sitting enjoying my sweets and the view, I had a text from work to say that the planning had come through for the store I’m opening on Friday! Result! Not like leaving it to the last minute or anything! There was still some legal issues to sort, so I arranged to hold a call at 12 from Stonehaven. That would give me an hour and a half to get the 20 miles to focus the mind…

However there was obviously a big drag up out of Inverbervie over the A92 and for the next 15 miles it was really heavy going. The roads were rough, potholed and steep, and I was either climbing at 4mph or descending at 25. It was very beautiful though, with views of the hills inland when you were climbing and a view to the sea when descending. It was also now proper hot! Climbing up and past the A90 again it was finally time for the drop down to Catterline and then the signs to Stonehaven which would take me past Dunnottar Castle. O.M.F.G.! I could see it from the road. Checking my watch it was 11.40. I’d done 30 miles so was halfway. I could do my call from here, spend some time exploring the Castle and still have time to stop at Stonehaven for a bit of lunch and get to Aberdeen in plenty of time. Decision made, I was pulling off the road and down into the car park, a quick coffee and muffin, and had the call with Liz. All sorted in 20 minutes, I found somewhere to lock up the bike and took the long walk down and up to the Castle. I’ve been to a lot of Castles in my time (thank you mam!) but this was in the top 1…I’ll let the pictures do the talking, but the combination of place, weather, history and architecture was intoxicating and my flabber was well and truly gasted!!!

 I could have stayed there all day. There were some benches sheltered from the wind, directly in the sun with the most magnificent view. It had gone past 2 however, and reluctantly I dragged myself away and climbed the 100 or so steps back up the cliff to the bike. Oh but my legs were sore! And the 14th century builders certainly hadn’t complied with current building standards regarding the rise and going of staircases…! Mounting up, taking a last glance at its magnificence, it was all downhill on a closed to motor vehicle traffic road to Stonehaven.

With a fabulous view of the old harbour and the Toolbooth, which I had learned so much about at the Castle it was down the rest of the descent and into beautiful Stonehaven. Famous for its fireballs at Hogmanay, it was somewhat more peaceful today and I happily perched on the harbour wall eating an excellent turkey bacon and slaw baguette from the cafe right on the harbour, battling wills with a gull who was waiting for my attention to wain in a bid to deprive me of it! I’d done about a mile of cycling in the past 2 and a half hours so decided I’d better get on with it and promising I’d be back again, crawled out of town on heavy legs.

I think I was bit overawed by it all looking back as the remaining 25 miles ticked off with relatively little impact on my memory. The roads were still very quiet and the view beautiful and on any other day I’d have been stopping every 5 minutes, but what I’d seen and the relief of being to open this shop on Friday, along with perhaps a bit of tiredness meant it all passed in a very pleasurable blur, the sun on my back and the turning of the pedals the only real sensation for a couple of hours. I remember the signs for Portethen and Findon but little else, then rounding a corner the tall structures of oil rigs being serviced in Aberdeens South Harbour meant I was here and it was done! 

Round the headland past the Girdleness lighthouse and past the heavy industry on the Dee and I was rolling into central Aberdeen just after 4pm. I’d made good time today and despite the heavy roads had managed to get the miles done as well as stop off and spend some time seeing the things I wanted to see. Just had time to ride out to Pittodrie, the home of Aberdeen FC to complete the Scottish East coast grounds and take a photo of the bike by the Alex Ferguson statute outside the massive main stand (bit disappointed he wasn’t furiously pointing at his watch…🤣) then track down the hotel and bring the trip to a close.

As you all know, I’m a creature of habit, so as always, it’s Pizza for the last night and a chance to have a think about the trip. It was harder than I thought it would be, but eventually found a place on Union Street, after I’d managed to do a bit of shopping for other Scottish essentials I promised to get, tablet & tunnocks!

I keep saying it, but Scotland is the best place in the world to ride a bike. The roads are quiet, the cycling infrastructure is good (if you have the right bike, it is focused on bike trails and a bit of the rough stuff, although the new paved cycle paths that were under construction in Abroath for example mean it will be better for roadies in the future) and the weather can be brilliant! I’ve been lucky this trip, but the bad stuff on Saturday and the cold on Sunday made the last 2 days that bit more special…

I love the sea, and being about as far away from it as possible when I’m home (80 miles to the nearest coast!) means that the Coast bit of the North & South routes very much is in my wheelhouse. The fact that there is also Castles, knocks in out of the park! 

I think I’ve also found the sweetspot distance wise with the trips. 50-60 miles a day is perfect. It makes progress enough that you feel you’re working at it, but gives enough time to do a bit of touristy things and not feeling like you’re just slogging your guts out just to get where you’re stopping, and while enjoying the journey don’t feel you can’t spare the time to stop when you find something interesting. The 80 mile day was fine as it gave me the morning in Dundee, but I won’t be doing the 100 milers of yore ever again!

Like the mileage, I’ve worked out the luggage, the bike and what to take. The new Ribble is all the bike I’ll ever need. It’s heavy as it’s steel, but it will last forever and the last time I got on the scales, I’m heavy too!!! While the electric gears are good, I’m not sure about having to charge the battery up, and remembering to take it out when you’re driving long distances with it in your car or on the train. I know one day I’m going to lose it/forget to charge it then I’ll be knackered, riding essentially a fixie up massive hills!

I’ll be honest and say that at half past midnight on Friday night when I was still working, knowing I still had to pack and service the bike before setting off for York in less than 7 hours, I nearly called it off. I’ve also got a mad couple of days when I get back to get Swarcliffe Community Shop open on Friday. I didn’t because I knew it’s what I needed. I guess it’s been physically tiring, but mentally my heart is singing! Just riding my bike, not thinking particularly about anything else and living in the moment is one of the most special things in my life and I find it hard to explain to other people why that it’s so, not least Andrea and the kids. I’m very grateful they put up with it as I know it’s selfish, but I don’t know how long I’ll be able to do it for, and I don’t want to be thinking in 10 years time (if I’m still here!) what if.

This time last year I mentioned that my friend Rachel was really poorly. It was the anniversary of her death last week, she was 52. We really don’t know how long we get to carry on on this little blue dot, so I’ll try and keep saying yes to things (within reason) and do things now, not wait for later. And on that note, the ferry to Shetland leaves Aberdeen at midnight… (I’M JOKING…🤣)