Die Klassik-Weltmesse Essen and round Holland on the Clown Bike - Day 4 : Amsterdam, back to lovely Utrecht, Reunited with Jean and the ferry home from Rotterdam Freeport

 No sunshine waking me up this morning, just the steady dribble of water from the shower in my room like water torture light, and the dribble of rain landing on the windowsill. Pulling back the curtains it looked very wet and I had left my coat in Jean back in Utrecht. With the unavailability of anything in Amsterdam, there was no choice really, I’d have a quick breakfast in the hotel and head out earlyish back to Utrecht. 

The wind hadn’t completely changed direction which was a blessing, but instead turned into a crosswind. I didn’t fancy it along the wide canal route I’d come up on yesterday, so a quick look at the map found an alternative route (the beauty of the Netherlands is that there are lots and lots of options!) Just as I was coming out of Amsterdam I came across an immaculate 2CV with a funny badge on the back. It said Club E, but they never made a Club E. then the penny dropped, it was an electric conversion! Taking a few photos the guy came out of the building and I had to ask him about it. It cost him €50,000! and he’d only had it 2 months. It had a range of 80 miles and similar top speed to mine, about 65mph. I mean it was lovely, but it would be no good to me!

The route I’d chosen would take me past the Cruyff Arena, the home of Ajax, and even though there were no tours available I’d be able to peddle round the outside and take some photos.  At 7 miles outside of the centre of Amsterdam it was typical of its type, looking lovely from 2 sides but the rest obscured by the obligatory shopping centre and hotel complex. Still I managed a few photos next to Cruyff’s statue and of the more picturesque side of the ground. Then I stumbled on the club shop. Well it would be rude not to go in and have a look around! As it was only 9.30 I had the place to myself, and there was some lovely stuff. They had a classic long sleeve 70’s home shirt, but the size I am at the moment, wearing a white T-shirt with a vertical stripe down the middle isn’t going to be the most flattering look, all that Gok Won that Andi made me watch all them years ago hasn’t gone to waste! The Addidas Ajax Sambas were another thing entirely…😁

Back on the road with the swag just about fitting on the Brompton, the route I chose was much more built up and therefore much better protected from the wind than yesterday and I was making good time as I cruised through some lovely little towns and villages, Vreeland, Breukelen (I kept a look out for Hans Van, but no joy…(niche Nottingham Forrest joke, don’t worry if you have no idea what I’m on about!) and what must be Hollands Alderley Edge, Leonen, where all the houses were massive and looked like they’d come of a Dutch shortbread tin! Man what a place to call home…

With the gawping and the time I’d spent at the Ajax club shop, time was ticking on, and the rough plan I had in my head to get back to Utrecht, try and get booked up for the 1pm tour of the Dam tower that I’d missed out on yesterday, then see if I could make the FC Utrecht v FC Twente Eredivisie game that kicked off at 2.30 was in a bit of jeopardy. Time to get my head down and the last 10 or so miles in from Breukelen. 

In true Glencorse form, I careered into Dom square at 5 to 1, quickly folded the bike up and ran into the tourist info shop in the square. They had a ticket left! Quickly asking if there was anywhere I could store the bike and the now massive bag I had with me as I didn’t fancy carrying them both up all 312 stairs 75 meters up, they confirmed there was a room I could put them in while the tour took place. Phew!

Well the tour was brilliant. It only lasted an hour but it had everything! History ✔️  Architecture ✔️ engineering and craftsmanship ✔️ oh and those of you that know my dark and dirty distant past…BELL RINGING! I mean what more can a man want! The tour guide was brilliant adding to the stuff I’d read about yesterday and coming out with a belting story from the 1500’s. At that time the tower had a caretaker who lived in the tower with his family looking after the bells and general maintenance. It was a prestigious job, but not well paid so to supplement his income he started brewing his own beer and opened a pub on the second level 25 meters up. That would be good, I hear you all say. The problem was the Bishop had sole use of the internal stairs in the tower so to get to the pub he would throw a rope ladder over the side and you would have to climb up it!!! Even worse, you’d had to climb down once you were pissed! There is a saying in Dutch that if you got mortal drunk, you were “laddered” and although it’s disputed as to where it does come from, people from Utrecht are sure it’s from this! Brilliant, and I’m using this term going forward…😁

The bells were also amazing, 34 in all, the most impressive dating from the early 1500’s. The biggest, Salvator, weighing in at over 8 tonnes. Nobody knows how they got the bells 50 meters up the tower to this day. Finishing with a close up of the restoration work at the top and the reason for the 5 1/2 year restoration work they have to do every 50 years, it was time to climb back down the very narrow steps, thank Luke the guide, get the bike back together and get over to the ground!

It was weird being in among match day atmosphere with everyone on bikes! Trying to find somewhere to lock the bike round the stadium was a nightmare as there were bikes everywhere! Eventually I found somewhere, locked the bike and struggled to the ticket office with my bag. Great there’s no queue, I thought. There was a reason there was no queue, and it’s because the match had sold out. Bugger! Thwarted at the last! To be honest, if I had a managed to get in, it would have made arriving at the ferry tight and would have left no time for any presents for my long suffering wife and kids. ( I don’t think a FC Utrecht mug and scarf would have gone down that well!)

Unlocking the bike it was back into the station car park with the bike, bag in a locker and time for a leisurely late lunch, one of the best cup of coffee I’ve ever had and a mouch round the little shops in the backstreets for something to take home. All too soon it’s was 4.30 and time to pick the bike up and go back to the hotel on the outskirts of town where I’d left Jean on Saturday morning. Throwing everything in the back, she started first time (of course she did!) and out onto the motorway for the 60 miles back to Freeport. Ticked off without a hitch, Jean was pulling up to check-in an hour early! Get me! I can do it occasionally…

With time to get a shower and something to eat before we’ve even set off, I’m writing this huddled up on the top deck outside as there’s no wi-if on board so having to tether my phone to get it done! I get back into Hull at 7 in the morning, then drive home from Hull ready to take Evan to work for 9. It all seems a long time since getting on the ferry only 4 days ago! 

Summary of the trip? The Netherlands are fantastic. Not just the cycling infrastructure which has blown my mind, but everything about the place. The people seem to have the right view on life, the places I’ve been have been by and large lovely and although they have there modern bits, they seem to be able to preserve their architecture and traditions and incorporate them into a modern way of living. At the risk of this sounding like a party political broadcast on behalf of the Utrecht tourist board, if you can get, please go. Apart from Bambrough, it may be the best place I’ve ever been…

I really enjoyed the Zollverein experience as well, the museum was brilliantly done with the history bang on about the good and bad parts of the industrialisation of the Ruhr, Essen not so much, but the car show was brilliant! Amsterdam was a bit of a disappointment, although I probably should have planned ahead better to get to see the things I wanted to see. Don’t know if I’ll be back there though.

I’ll also just confirm that dispute the odd set back (IOM coppers I’m looking at you…) touring by bike is the best way to see a country, even more so when the infrastructure is a good as it’s been in Holland (And to a lesser extent, Germany) closely followed by driving around in a 40 year old 2CV…Once again it’s been a masterclass by Jean, proving reliable, fun and economical transport and making lots of people smile along the way.

Anyway looking forward to getting back home tomorrow morning and seeing Andi, Mizz, Ev and Nevis, as while I do enjoy the solo travels sometimes it does get a bit lonely! What’s next? I’m still waiting for the 4 wise monkeys to decide in a date, never mind a destination for September…speak to you all then!