“Oh Jean” Hebridean Way 2022 Day 7 Uig - Portree - Sconser - Broadford - Armadale Museum - Armadale ferry terminal - Mallaig
As I hadn’t drawn the curtains at the air B&B last night, when the alarm went off at 6.30 the sunrise was just starting to appear from behind the hills as I got up. Sitting on the porch I was able to watch it majestically appear while I waffled down toast, home made marmalade and a cup of tea. Days don’t start much better, I’ll tell you! In a portent of what was to come weather wise, there was not a cloud in the sky as I gave the bike a quick once over ( I thought the clanking may been the seat being loose, but it’s definitely the pedal) strapped the bags on and was puffing up the big hill out of Uig by 8 a.m. I think it’s definitely the other 3 that have been holding me back!
I would be on the A87 for most of the day and it was pretty quiet for the 17 miles into Portree meandering down the coast line with a few lumps and bumps, but very pleasant. With me losing the headphone jack, I wasn’t able to put headphones in, but with nobody about I had the phone on loudspeaker in my jersey pocket having put on the playlist that Mizz had done for us on the long drive down to Devon for the Beautiful Days festival. Apart from the obscure David Bowie and Velvet Underground stuff she mysteriously likes so much, it was bangers all the way and at 9.30 I’d made the 17 miles into Portree. Not wanting to take up to much time, a quick stop to get a pain au chocolate, coffee, OJ and hot dog (why not?!) from the Co-Op and eat it sitting it on the wall outside, and it was saddle up, turn right out of Portree and cross the centre of Skye and up and over Drum na Cloch.
As you can see from the photo’s the views and the weather were both spectacular. Round every corner there was a better one. However the views weren’t the only reason I was stopping regularly. The road was busy, really busy. I’m usually ok with it, but I think having been used to virtually no traffic all week in the Hebrides, it was slightly unnerving to be close passed so constantly. Main culprits were the hire camper vans, obviously driven by pillocks who didn’t know how big and wide the vehicle they were driving was, closely followed for some reason given their cycle culture, cars with Dutch number plates. After a while, I pulled over, gave my self a good talking to, and came up with a strategy. When there was nothing coming the other way, I’d keep to the left so everyone had plenty of room to get past, but when I could see traffic coming the other way, I moved into primary (middle of my lane) so there was no way they could just squeeze past and would have to wait for the approaching car to pass. It worked much better, but did take a bit off the gloss on what was a great road. It still baffles me, why in a car, given the scenery on that road, you want to save the 20 seconds or so it would take to pass a cyclist safely. I guess arseholes, will be arseholes…
Reaching the top of the very long climb up to Drum na Cloch, the view back down the valley and around the Loch was stunning, and taking primary doing 40mph I was soon down and round and pulling into Broadford. It was a lovely little town and at just after 12 noon and 40 miles, I had time for a walk about it’s little craft shops. If Andrea or Mizz were let loose round here we’d be bankrupt in hours! Still full from my hot dog breakfast, it was a quick drink and one of the last of Dec’s brownies, and at last time to pull off the A87, relax a bit for the final 15 miles up the newly built (finished in 2009 with a grant from the EU, funny that…) A851 which was lovely and wide and very quiet. There was a few stinging climbs, but as Oh Baby by LCD Sound System came on the playlist to make the perfect tempo to get up the worst, I was cruising into Armadale looking for the ferry terminal.
Just before however there were signs for the Armadale castle museum and gardens and as I was so early and it was such a beautiful day and, of course, I’m on holiday and on my own so wouldn’t have to listen to Dec twist on that we should forego any sort of cultural enrichment, I made the decision to get my ticket for the last ferry, get something to eat and visit the castle and museum.
Ferry booked for 5.30 and a great local caught smoked trout salad eaten in the sunshine, I retraced my steps up and out of the port to the Castle and Museum. Paying to go in, I heard a familiar accent as the lady behind the counter was originally from Whitburn in Sunderland! We get everywhere! I’d made the right call! The grounds were fantastic with much like the Yorkshire Sculpture Park near me, they had made a decision in the late 18th century when botany was all the rage, to import lots of rare to the Uk trees and plants. Some of these 300 year old trees were huge! With the back drop to the ocean and the mainland in the distance it was a great way to while away the afternoon. The castle itself was the spiritual home of the Clan Donald and had been occupied up until 1920. Since then however time has not been kind and most of it has been demolished. The museum went into the pre history of Scotland and was very good, although perhaps not as hard hitting as the museum we went to on South Uist. Some very familiar scenes though of land clearance, famine, miss management and de-population.
All of a sudden it was 5pm and with just time to get an ice cream for the ferry, it was the short 5 mile ferry over to the mainland and Mallaig. There was enough time however for a pod of dolphins to escort the ferry along for a good 10 minutes which pretty much topped off a perfect day! Mallaig was everything that Stornaway wasn’t. Bustling and busy, there were loads of pubs and restaurants, all seemingly jammed to the rafters. After trying 2 with no luck, I stumbled on The Chlachain Inn, they had a table and I had the best pasta I’ve ever had. Made with fresh Mallaig honey roast salmon, I’m fully fuelled for tomorrow!
You’ll all be disappointed that it looks like I’m going to get wet tomorrow, but I’m going to try and set off super early to miss the worst of it. I’ve also amended the route so I try and keep off the main A830 as much as possible in light of today which adds a bit of climbing and distance, but we’ll see how it goes! Hopefully I’ll be back on the islands this time tomorrow on Mull in Tobermory. Those with kids of a certain age will know it was the setting of Balamory the kids TV show, and I’m under strict instructions to get lots of photos! Hope Archie and Josie Jump are still about…
Oh, nearly forgot! The 3 amigos made it home safe and well…
Comments
Post a Comment