“Oh Jean” Hebridean Way 2022 Day 2 Oban - Castlebay - Vatersay - Castlebay
Having both snored ourselves through the massive thunderstorm overnight, everyone was down for breakfast at 8 knowing we had 5 hours till the ferry left and there was no way we could miss it as we were literally a stones throw away from the ferry port! With me having made the first fopar of the day by asking for a full English (queue needle coming of the record, pool ball stopping on the pool table and absolute silence…) the second surprising thing of the day was Kieran NOT finishing his breakfast! With no Weetabix available he also hadn’t had his usual 6 before the full English either! Obviously something was up and while the others went and got changed and packed the bags KC went for a walk and I got my bike out of the shed and got all the bags on. I’d been waiting for 20 mins and no sign of anybody, so I decided to spin up the hill to Pulpit Rock take a few photos and tell Andrea to sell everything as we were moving here!
20 minutes later I was back and all 3 were still buggering with the bags, so I dropped down the hill to the ticket office to get the 4 tickets for the Castlebay ferry. It was 9.40, still loads of time so once they’d finally got the bags on the bikes and met me at the ferry port, discussions on what to do in the 3 hours before we were due to board were had. As it might be a bit choppy Dec recommend (after consultation with Conleth the Druid) some ginger crystals we could get from the Tesco in the town, then we’d spin down the coast to catch the short ferry to Kerrera so we could tick off another island, then get back have lunch and a coffee and get on the ferry.
All going to plan until I asked to stop for a photo in front of one of my old Factory Shops. While Frankie took the photo, Dec decided he would adjust his pedal cleat as they were a bit too tight. Anyone who has witnessed Dec wield any sort of tool will know why he usually leaves it to his son Cameron to do anything…sure to form, I round the corner to find Kieran on his hands and knees cursing and swearing. Dec had loosened the screw so much the retaining nut had flew off and because of the tension in the springs was impossible to get back on. 40 minutes later both Kieran and me admitted defeat, when Frankie pointed out we’d seen a bike shop in the town centre on our walk last night. A quick spin into town and the bike shop was closed on Mondays. Of course it was. Next door was a Timpsons and a guy popped out to his van, at which point he was asked if he a set of needle nosed pliers as we reckoned we could use them to force the nut back in while tightening the screw. Nope. Another 20 minutes of cursing and swearing and the poor guy needed to get to his next job! He did say that there was a hardware place back near the Tesco called Highland fasteners and we could possibly get a longer screw to fix it. Back on the bikes and for the 5th time today down the harbour road where 8p later we had a slightly longer screw that…we couldn’t get in! It was now 11.20…Dec was told he’d broken it, so he’d have to get on with it with the obvious response that he’d be even more at a disadvantage and if he did ever win one of the climbs or stages…
We still had time to rescue something from the morning, so we headed to Ganavan sands just a couple of miles to the North from Oban so me and Kieran could get our feet in the water, then it was turn round and race the ferry back along headland! Stopping for a sandwich to take on the ferry which nearly made us miss the ferry it took so long, we only had time for the caravan in front of us in the queue to get stuck against the barriers and we were through and by the gate to board. Thinking I had time for a quick wee in the terminal I returned with the loading guy telling me “come on Mr pissy pants” (charming!) and we were tieing the bikes up and quickly up on the top outside deck to baggsy the best seats.
What followed was without doubt the best public transport journey I’ve ever had. The weather was astonishing. There was no need for any of Dec’s juju medicine (although we had some anyway as it was lovely!) as the sea was a millpond. Coming out through the Inner Hebridies there was too much to look at both sides of the boat, and I think I’ve just about filled the phones memory with pictures. Once passed Tobermory, we’d reached the Hebridean sea and thoughts turned to stomachs after our “epic” 10.5 miles in 4 hours this morning! Ice creams, coffees and cakes all round, finished off with just me having a pint! I don’t drink much at all, but I just fancied one, and sitting in the sun, on the way to a place I’d wanted to go for so long with my mates and a pint, it felt pretty good believe me! With just a picture of the very good boy Rottweiler and his owners in the seats in front of us, at last, the Outer Hebrides hoved into view!
“Is that it?” Comes the cry from behind me, “it’s not very big is it? No wonder you struggled to get somewhere to stay” Castlebay looked to me like the settlements I’ve seen on the Faroe Islands and unbeknown to me there was a Castle, in the bay! back down to the car deck and there was time for Dec to beat one of the unsuspecting other cycle tourists up the ramp into the town on his Brompton and turn left for 50 yards to the B&B. And what a magnificent B&B! The Tighnamara was amazing as was Linda the landlady and when she confirmed that instead of the doubles we had 2 twin rooms the day was complete!
We had planned on doing the loop to the start of the Hebridean Way in the morning, but with such a beautiful evening a quick decision was made that we’d do the 12 miles or so tonight give more time for faffing around in the morning. To do it with or without the bags was the question. We are doing it unsupported so we have to take the bags. Right? Right?! 3 sets of bags dropped off with only me keeping them on, it was off to the start at Vatersay. And the race was on! The steepest climb of the tour was just a mile out of Castlebay and it kicked of straight away! With Kieran pushing his usual massive gear, it was a slight lead from me with Frankie and Dec close behind. Although the views where stunning as we came within a few hundred yards of the top, I could hear a voice behind me…”I’m coming…” Noooooo! Obviously I had my full luggage and he didn’t so I was at a massive disadvantage {!) I didn’t need him to say anything as I could hear the clanging, bashing, squeaking clown bike from 20 yards away as it inched closer. With Kieran pulling away at the front (also sans panniers, just saying…) I was struggling. I couldn’t let him win on the first climb, so swallowing the little bit of sick as my heart rate reached 180 I managed to pip him and Frankie to the top with Kieran talking the Conleth/Mark Noble jersey and first points of the tour!
Down the big descent, passing some cyclists from the ferry, over the causeway to Vatersay and then to the beach that marks the start of the Hebridean Way, my jaw was pretty much on the floor the whole way. Wow. And I mean Wow! The weather was still amazing and with the sun setting I took a load of photos and videos and all too quickly we were at the start. With me and Kieran deciding the beach was just too inviting, Dec and Frankie set of for the B&B to get a shower and make sure that we kept our table reservation at the Cafe Kisimul Indian restaurant in the harbour at 8 ( big thanks to Jo for the tip!)
A paddle on the deserted beach dodging the jellyfish, we’d be back for 8 although not with time to go for a shower. At least we were until we came round the corner to where we’d taken the photos not 20 minutes before. Declan. Puncture. Apparently he’d been frantically trying to get it done before we’d come past, but as previously noted, he’d run out of mechanical talent and couldn’t get the tyre back on. With instructions for Kieran and Frankie to go back to the B&B to make sure we’d keep the table, for the second time today I was on my knees cursing and swearing at the Brompton and by extension it’s owner! He’s a bright bloke, with a very successful business. You’d think he would have a least had a quick look over the bike before cycling the thick end of 300 miles wouldn’t you?! finding a threadbare sidewall on the tyre and then the fact that he hadn’t even lubed the chain before coming, if it makes it to Stornaway on Friday I’ll be amazed!
Tyre back on, wheel back on and all pumped up, for once, we decided to behave like adults, and with me behind him just in case, we climbed back over the big hill together, as I told him not to play silly buggers, a point he later claimed was me not feeling that good (he was spot on!) and the stage finished annulled as we pulled straight into the harbour to the cafe and an excellent Monkfish curry as the restaurant played David Bowie all night. Mizz, my daughter would have loved it! With a quick catch up with Andi to see how Ev got on at work and how her mum was, it was back to the B&B via a little walk through the town with a hope if seeing the Northern Lights ( no luck tonight but the night sky was amazing!) and bed.
Another ferry to catch tomorrow, but lots a dicking around in the morning as we try and give Dec’s bike the service it should have had before he came out! We are also staying in a bunk house tomorrow with a peat fire outside in the middle of nowhere. I mean what can go wrong….
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